Vacheron. Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. In platinum. This reference 49005 is Vacheron’s very own perpetual calendar chronograph produced in the 90s: the same time period when patek was producing the 3970s.
The first production of 49005 started in 1992 until 2000 with 300 examples made in platinum, this is a piece you see everyday. Definitely a conversation piece.
Based on a Vacheron’s in house perpetual calendar which also features in the 43031 (what a watch that is), alongside with Fredrique Piguet 1185 base chronograph movement. The 4 sub registers on the dial have 3 dimensional look to it with each sub registers sunken a little bit from the dial which are the finer details that adds to the beauty of this neo vintage Vacheron. (May I say the sub register is similar to that of 1st series 3940s). And no, I’m not gonna be out here saying that this automatic chronograph movement is significantly better than the Lemania based manual wound movement of the 3970, for what the watch is currently worth, with 49005 costing less than half of 3970s current price, it is a lot of watch for the price.
In terms of dimensions and proportions, the size screams neo vintage with its 38mm case size and 44mm lug to lug, the watch fits smaller than normal 38mm watches (fits more like a 36-37mm) due to its short lug to lug length. On the wrist, I love the short lug length as longer lug dimensions allow for watches to fit a little bigger at times which I am not a big fan of. The presence of platinum is definitely noticeable with the watch weighing over 100g (106g to be exact), the heft on the wrist reminds you that you are wearing a platinum piece, not white gold. I am thrilled and sad at the same time to have this for sale as I have to say my goodbyes to this guy, but this watch is now ready for a new caretaker.