In Person: Patek Philippe ref.591 "Pink on Pink"

In Person: Patek Philippe ref.591 "Pink on Pink"

 

Patek Philippe Chronograph ref.591. Any vintage lovers have love for vintage chronographs, and vintage Patek chronographs' are on that upper echelon of the category. Patek Philippe first introduced the reference 130, which is widely regarded as Patek Philippe’s first serially produced chronograph and was made from the 30s until the 60s. From this era (30-60s) of Patek chronograph, the ref.130 and the ref.1463 (first waterproof cased chronograph) are the 2 most celebrated references, however there were other lesser known, less produced than the 2; amongst them, is this reference 591.

In the late 1930s chronographs were becoming essential tools for doctors and engineers,  and the ref.591 was first Introduced in 1938 and produced only until 1947, this specific reference stands out as a brief, but important piece in the history of Patek. The shape is rather unconventional due to its distinctive long, bean shaped lugs, so-called "Fagiolino" which means string beans in Italian. The unique case shape is paired with softly contoured pushers. When looking at a reference such as the 130, many Patek case designs were more on a leaned conservative side, but the 591 feels intentionally stylized, with a sculptural profile that’s elegant without being ornate. The case diameter is measured at 34.5 mm, which is bigger than the 130, and a rather more classical proportion when looking at present days, and due to the long lugs, the watch has surprising presence on the wrist. I'd say the watch fits more like 36mm case diameter as the lugs flair out more than you expect, yet it slopes wonderfully on the wrist.

I would like to say that the Ref. 591’s reputation is built on 2 things; the unique case design and unusually small production number. There are approximately 100 examples made throughout the lifespan, with approximately 40 in yellow gold and 60 in pink gold. In current market, there is approximately, 28 examples of pink gold 591s that has survived, making it one of the rarest chronographs on the market. Christies has described the 591 as "rarer than any other chronograph model of the period". Well I could argue back and state that the ref.1506 is just as, if not rarer than the 591. 1506, would be my grail Patek chronograph. 

Inside, the 591 is powered by Patek Philippe’s celebrated hand-wound chronograph family based on the Caliber 13-130, as it traces its roots to a Valjoux 23 ébauche that Patek extensively reworked and elevated to Geneva Seal standards, which is the same movement that powered the 130, 1518, and 2499. Funnily enough Patek did not have a manual wound chronograph only watch in their catalogue for a good 3 decades until they released the ref.5070 which featured the Lemaina based Caliber CH 27. 

One of the biggest reasoning behind the purchase of this 591 is the colour combination; this specific 591 in pink gold has a unique feature, so called “Pink-on-pink”. which  typically refers to a pink gold case paired with a matching pink dial, making it one of the most desired colour combination for any vintage Patek Collectors due to its unity in colour and rarity in production. In the world of vintage Patek chronographs, this combination is uncommon, and making the watch that much more collectible. 

Look, I am not going to be here and say this is the most desired chronograph that Patek has ever produced. No. when things are produced in such limited quantity back then, there must have been a reason why. Maybe the case was a little too avant-garde compare to the 130, or they intentionally wanted to keep their "subsidiary" reference production number small, who knows. But one thing for sure is that this quirky, not for everyone chronograph  has now become one of the rarest chronographs to be found in the market, and to be preserved in such condition in last 8 decades and to land on my wrist, I can only say I am one lucky dude to own this piece.