This might sound a little offensive towards people who love perpetual calendars, and regardless of what I am about to say, I still have massive appreciation for mechanical complications. But in year 2025, a watch collector who is deep enough to get a perpetual calendar, will not really need that complication ever, in fact, I am quite sure there are more people who does not put the right day date, leap year and moonphase on their perpetual calendar watches than people who actually do. And understandably so. A collector who is deep into it to own a perpetual calendar probably has more than 1 watch in their rotation, meaning they will have to set the time every time they wear it once in a while. And setting the perpetual calendar with those hidden pushers, let’s be honest, it can be a hassle if you’re in a rush. Unless you own the Kurt Klaus IWC perpetual calendars or the new AP perpetual calendar Caliber where it’s actually as simple as pulling the crown out, people will not set their calendars. But people are still willing to give extra dough for the complication. Yes, it has more to do with the appreciation of the caliber, such as the 240Q caliber made by Patek; craftsmanship in how they managed to make such complications in such a slim and compact size. Svend Andersen’s retrograde perpetual calendar, I appreciate as well. Avant-garde design, with symmetrical dial layout. But, we all have to admit, we do not use it as it’s made for. I admit I did have a phase of my own complicated watches, and I have been lucky enough to own a couple perpetual calendar watches in the past (have sold most of them now) and as much as I appreciate it, I stopped pursuing them for now. That does not mean I will not own another perpetual calendar, but as of now, I have scratched the itch enough. But if there is a perpetual calendar out there I cannot miss out on, of course I will consider. Like the 3448 or a 3970.
Still love this Langematik though
Another eke that has gotten into me is watches with day and date functions that have a cut on the dial, and for some weird reason, the cuts on the dial are bothering my eyes a lot, especially if the cuts are placed unsymmetrically (eg: date window and 3 o’clock, I can unsee it) People might think I am a psycho to think this way but I really can’t unsee the cuts on the dial, unless it is in perfect symmetry. For instance, datejusts and day dates, I can’t unsee the imbalance of the dial from the date window at 3 o’clock and the day window at 12 o’clock. Especially the day window at 12 o’clock; I genuinely believe people have been so normalised seeing the huge day display at 12 o’clock since day dates have been around longer than a lot of collectors, but I don’t see how that cut at 12 and 3 o’clock translates to the beauty of a watch. I am saying this as someone who owned numerous day dates and datejusts. Back when I owned it, I did not have the eye to catch those annoying cuts, but the last day-date that I have sold, the 18346, for some weird reason, the unsymmetrical dial layout and huge cuts on the dial did not do it for my eyes. But there is one exception with dial cuts; a jump hour. I mean the cut is there for necessity since without the dial cut, I won't be able to tell time.
Last Day-date I owned, ref.18346
This little eke of mine does lead to me pursuing a lot of time only watches, or chronographs these days. In terms of time only, I have been on a hunt for a few calatravas, which I have been fortunate enough to find a few, and with chronographs, I never knew I would need a chronograph but I actually use it on a daily basis. I am not saying this phase will last forever, but that’s the phase I am personally in. I am sure this also changes over time.
Overall, these are purely my opinion and my viewpoint of defining a watch in this current state of mind. I am hoping to re-read this in a couple months/years time and laugh about how my current taste in watches are. So as all collectors say, buy something that is “beautiful” in your own definition. The word beauty is so broad, everyone will have their own definition of beauty, so don’t let anyone define your beauty.
