When we are talking about complications, grand complications, so called ‘haute horlogerie’, Breguet cannot be missed out on the conversation. The world knows the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet, who I believe is one of the most influential watchmakers in history as his inventions are still relevant after over 200 years, and Daniel Roth; who basically revived the brand in the 20th century and brought Breguet back to creating beautiful elegant timepieces, Bregeut as a brand was in hands of pretty significant, historical figures in the world of watches. Although I cannot say that the present Breguet still breathes that same heritage of the past, there were a few selections of Breguet that still have the similar DNA of Abram Louis Bregue and Daniel Roth even up until the 21st century, like the classique tourbillon ref.3657 we have here.
The 3657 was released about a decade after Daniel Roth left the brand, and one of the first models that was released after the acquisition of Swatch group in 1999 although it is unclear when exactly the production officially started. However, change of ownership did not stop them from creating a true Breguet DNA watch. First introduced in 2005, this was their new offering in their “Grand Complication” alongside the classique tourbillon ref.3357. By no means this was the successor of 3357, as the 3357 only got discontinued in 2024. This 3657 was a fresh new face to the brand especially in the new era of Breguet after their acquisition from Swatch group, and they have done a great job of showcasing a great mixture of moderness and breguet heritage.
Measuring at 39mm in diameter, with 10mm thickness, and 47mm lug to lug on a 18K yellow gold case, this is not your traditional “vintage” size, and it does not wear like a traditional vintage watch as well. However, the watch still fits very well for my extremely masculine 15.5cm wrist, probably the max size I would personally wear. After often handling smaller pieces, the 39mm gives a more masculine look than a 35-36mm Breguets from similar eras. (At least one is masculine)
Engine behind the 3657 is the Breguet Caliber 560, a manual wound movement synchronising with 235 components, 55 hour power reserve when fully wounded. What does the 235 component result in? A Tourbillon, power reserve indicator and a retrograde 24 hour indicator. First the obvious, which is the tourbillon, quite visibly noticeable at 6 o’clock, which also showcases the seconds hands as the rotating cage will fully spin 360 degrees in 60 seconds, hence the seconds hands being positioned there. Visually, the power reserve indicator and the 24 hour indicator are not symmetrically aligned, but the indicators are actually positioned side by side at 4 and 8 o’clock which gives you a symmetrical feel on a non-symmetrical dial design. Flip the watch, the sapphire caseback allows you to see the beautiful hand-finished bridges and a beautifully decorated baseplate, showcasing how much work and effort has gone into this watch. Looking closer into the caliber number, this specific watch has the caliber “560.1” written just next to the hallmarks with a case number 644. Researching from other Breguets, they put an additional “.1” at the end of the caliber when they change the series, meaning this is a 2nd series or later as the earlier case number and movement number should have caliber “560” engraved, just like Breguet did it in 3350/3357s through their 5 different series of movements. The latest case number I have found in this 3657 is 4999 which also has “560.1” written in the back, and the earliest case number being 570, also with “560.1”. Knowing that this case number is one of the earlier case numbers, brings up a prediction that the movement engraved “560” are fitted in case number 56x or earlier, making it rarer than the “560.1” engraved pieces which are more common and longer produced.
Flip the watch back, the dial needs to be mentioned. At this point, when we are talking about neo vintage Breguet classique collections, you expect a sick guilloché dial, and this is no different. The harmony of Clos de Paris and Grain d’orge guilloché creates this mesmerizing looking dial especially when looking up close with the camera. Also, the dial on the 3657 dial does feature “Swiss Guilloche Main” underneath 6 o’clock, which was not present in the 3350s.
This is Breguet’s modern version of doing things “right”, which is not something I can say to a lot of other models that are coming from the brand. This 3657 still breathes Breguet heritage while being suitable for more modern size and designs. After all, Breguet + Tourbillon will always be best friends. This piece has been well maintained and is in overall great condition, ready for the next caretaker. Until then, I will caretake this piece with pleasure.
